First, cut the model put the seam

Sewing  also known as sewing, sewing, sewing head, etc., refers to the various  pieces of clothing required for each suture plus width, in cm as a unit.  Sewing is  mainly based on the garment design requirements, the fabric structure  and sewing process requirements and other factors to decide. The importance of putting the correct seams has been elaborated in  Chapter I, where only the specific requirements and methods for drafting  seams are described.

1.  Garment design requirements Here refers to the requirements of clothing  styles, such as the Department of Ming line parts, must be based on the  design line width requirements, then put the seam, the following hem,  cuffs hem, Using a series of bright line design situation. The wider the open line, the more seams. In addition also with the grade of clothing design, technology and so on. High-end tri-fold edge process, the lower end of the seam process can be used. For  example, the general high-end tri-fold put the stitching: thick  material for the line + 0.6 ~ lcm; thin material trifle put the sew to  the line width × 2; low seam sewing process put the line for the line  width +0.5 cm. For the design of higher apparel. Then the mouth part of the request is thin, put the sew to be less, but increased the difficulty of the sewing process. For foreign trade single processing of clothing, customers to put the  sample is how much, then cut the model must put the number of seams, are  generally not allowed to change.

2.Fabric structural performance Putting the seams must take into account  the structural characteristics of the fabric, the structure is more  loose and easily scattered fabrics (such as polyester, etc.), the seam  to be properly widened.

3. Sewing process requirements Various types of sewing as shown in Table 2-1.

(1).  Flat seam

The two layers of sewing material relative to the front line  of the seam type, seam 0.8 ~ 1.2cm, commonly used 1cm. Such  as the stitch back side of the known as the inverted seam; stitched  separately hot ironing is called a slit; collar, flap and other stitches  after the turn is good, called the seam, the seam seam is generally  0.6cm . Flat seams are widely used in the upper garment shoulder seam, side  seam, sleeve seams, pants under the file seam, side seam, collar, flap  and other parts, flat seam is the most widely used in all kinds of seam  type.

(2). Compression seam 

Sewing seam, also known as buckle seam. The first seam sewed top deduction, flattening, pressing a positive  line 0.1cm line, commonly used in patch bags, shirts and so on,  shoulders are generally 0.6 ~ lcm.

(3). Inside seam

The package seam also known as anti-seam. The  sewing material will be the front of the relative overlap, a wide and  narrow head of the seam, when the first joint wide-brimmed out of the  seam over the fold, wrapped in the film on the stitching, stitching in  the turn stitching stitch on the line, and then In the net edge of folding 0.1 cm wide open bright line. The characteristics of the amount of positive visible a line, the opposite two lines. Commonly used in shoulder seam, side seam, sleeve seam and other  parts, seam wide side is 1.4 ~ 1.6cm, narrow side is 0.7 a 0.8cm.

(4). Outsourcing seam 

Outsourcing is also known as the package seam. The  opposite side of the sewing material overlap, and then by the method of  lining seam line, the formation of Ming Bao Ming's series of sewing. Its characteristic is the front has two lines, the opposite side line. Sewn copies with the package seam.

(5).  To seam 

The opposite of the first two pieces of clothing, in the front  of the narrow slit about 0.3 ~ 0.4cm wide, and then turned over to the  opposite side of the fold folded into the light stitches stubble, line  of about 0.5 to 0.6 cm wide So come and go seam sew or 1cm. Apply to the material should not be three-seam package, such as thin fabrics such as silk, or no over-sewing machine when used.

(6). Lap seam

Lap seam also known as riding. The two pieces of stitching seam stitching overlap, in the middle of a  series of lines to be fixed, can reduce the thickness of the stitching,  for a variety of lining cloth stitching, stitches generally 0.8 ~ lcm.

(7). Sit seam 

Sit seam refers to the inverted seam on the side of the seaming head series. As the design requirements of the open line width ranging, so plus put the seam is also different. The  upper seam of inverted seam is narrower than the width of bright thread  in order to reduce the thickness of the seam, while the lower seam of  the inverted seam should be wider than the width of 0.4cm so as to fix  the open thread and fix the reverse seam. If  the front piece of sewing head to keep the first 0.6cm, then the film  must be left l cm of the sewing head; thick material coat swing seam  shoulder shoulder line width of 2 cm, the back piece of the seam 0.6cm, 2.4cm. For thin clothing, inverted seam of the line is narrower, two pieces of side seam left the same width of 1cm.

(8)  Trifold edge 

Tucker refers to the material to a seam of about 0.6cm  folded, and then folded a width of the seam, such as 1cm, 2cm, etc.  (according to design requirements), and then edit a bright line. Trifold for the hem and so on. For silk fabrics, especially the more transparent silk fabrics, tuck the two-fold seam shall be the same. For the bottom pendulum, cuffs, kerchief fold the general put the seam 3 ~ 4cm. Zipper, sacks on both sides of the put the seam is generally 1.5 ~ 2cm.

4.  Cut the model put the seam method

(1). Release the seam principle  Putting the seam must be based on the size of the seam, the hair suture  line with the model of the net suture line parallel, that is parallel  plus principle (Figure 2-8).

(2) .Slotting  method To suit the sleeve as an example, according to the principle of  parallel plus and place can be easily and quickly to put the seam. However,  when the sewing sleeve sewing thread, due to the length of the end of  the seam length, sewing is prone to misalignment, the sewing accuracy  drops. To solve this problem, we must take the  following methods: First, hit the knife on the suture eye knife; Second,  the angle of the sewing head made of quadrilateral, and the  corresponding equal. The only way to ensure sewing quality (Figure 2-9).

Specific method:

(1)  is to use the need to extend the need to suture the net suture, and  intersect with another suture, cross the intersection of suture  extension line of the vertical line, you can sew a quadrant;

(2) is stitched and then divided into the shape shown. Quadrilateral  plus end angle seam head, there are exceptions, such as jackets,  jackets and other non-profit, the neckline and armhole at the corner if  you still add the above method, the seam will be found after the missing  part of the seam , After the assembly with other  components is neither solid nor esthetic, in order to solve this  problem, we must take two seam head width to do the end seam, the size  of both ends of the seam, so you have to hit the suture Right knife eye. Suture and then split, and the excess part of the clear cut (Figure 2-10).

(3). The end of  the pendulum, Kukou, cuffs and other parts of the flanging put the use  of hemming Shendao law, the fold will be folded along the fold line up,  and then cut directly according to the wool suture, You can (as shown in Figure 2-11). Another  method is drawing method, applicable to unfold the cardboard, that is  the center line of the fold line, folded according to the width of the  fold after the put suture, put the suture by the symmetry principle  (Figure 2-12 Shown).

Second, the model tag

Net  model according to the above principles and methods put the seam after  the hair become a model, the model must be made on a variety of markers,  mainly used as model push files, nesting, sampling and cutting the  positioning basis to ensure Product specifications and modeling accuracy. Therefore, the model mark is very important, requires careful, serious, not missing. Markers mainly include playing knife eye, drilling, provincial and pleated collapse and so on. l. Knife eye knife also known as the eye knife, notch and so on.

(1). The role of playing knife eye knife can show the size of the seam, play the role of knife and positioning.

(2). Kind of eye type

① scissors play knife eye advantage is convenient, the disadvantage is to notch the mouth, stress concentration, easy to tear.

② Eye cutter eye cutter Eye cutter eye clamp similar to the train, car  ticket checking tools, is the factory commonly used tools, play the  rules of the eye, depth, width easy to grasp.

③ crossed the knife eye position According to the structural  characteristics of the fabric, the knife at the time of sampling must be  crossed to indicate.

(3) the principle of playing knife eyes

① Depth of the depth of the knife is generally around O.5cm.

② direction knife eye direction perpendicular to the net suture. Armband  arm arc, for example, armband arc as a concave curve, so the hair  suture to be shorter than the net suture, and sleeve arc as a convex  curve, so the hair suture to be greater than the net suture. To keep net sutures equal or have set eaters, the accuracy of  stitching or assembly of the part can be guaranteed only when the arc is  perpendicular to the net suture.

③  knife has a special role to indicate the size of the sewing hole knife  eye play, the principle is based on the sewing order to be sewn at both  ends (starting and ending points) hit the knife; eye knife used for  positioning, as the following hem Flap,  wide noodles, slits and so on, the provincial highway, folding pleat  the upper end of the zipper point, as well as pants straight pocket  pocket positioning, etc .; used as a knife on the knife and eye play  more flexible, generally refers to Longer seams or two parts have special assembly relationship, such as  armbands and cuff arcs, collar and collar arcs, etc., according to the  template design to accurately suture, the eye can be more or less,  according to the specific circumstances to decide.

Drilling eye drilling also known as drilling.

(1) The role of drilling Borehole for pocket position, provincial position and so on. Because these parts are often located in the center of the film and can not use the knife to represent.

(2)  .Brilling method Boring eye generally drill or chisel manual hole  diameter of about 0.5cm, the size of the drill hole to facilitate the  appropriate sample. Specific  parts are digging the bag in the middle of the line, both ends of the  advance 0.5 ~ 1cm; provincial highway in the center line, the street  back 1 ~ 2cm, depending on the specific size of the provincial highway  and the factory established habits to be. Strictly  according to the size of provincial highway to set the eye position (as  shown in Figure 2 a l3), so that the bores can be hidden in the seam,  will not be damaged due to drilling the front fabric, affecting the  quality of garments. For the left and right asymmetric style drilling to be positive and negative. A small circle can be used to indicate this side to be drilled.

3. Provincial Highway and pleated inverted mark

In the industrial model, provincial and pleated back markers generally have the following two types:

(1). Slashes about 45 ° and the location and direction of the provincial road. The higher one is the upper one (as shown in Figure 2-14).

(2) The arrow direction indicates the direction of pleat and provincial road (as shown in Figure 2-15).

It is important to note here that the template markings are different from the markings of the cuttings. The  model is the basis for nesting, patterning and cutting, requiring  accurate marking, knife-edge, large drilling, which is conducive to  patterning. The mark of the cutting piece is the basis of the sewing  process, the depth of the eye should be narrower than the width of the  sewing head, Generally half the slit head width, drilling diameter should be small,  about 0.2cm, so as to avoid the seam after the exposed seam.

Third, the model of the text marked industrial model As a series of  model, in order to prevent mistakes, is conducive to industrial  production and archiving, need to make a text on the template mark, easy  to identify.

1. Text label content

(1) the model of the silk 绺 marks and fabric down the hair forward mark. Silk  绺 mark can be used at both ends or one end of the arrow to represent,  the forward mark can only be used to indicate one end of the arrow. Silk 绺 line that requires accurate, longer, try to use the template in  the basic line, in order to facilitate the discharge pattern.

(2) paragraph number or customer name, code and so on. It can be expressed in Arabic numerals, Chinese and English.

(3) model name of the structure. Such as the former film, the film, the film, the sleeve, sleeve, collar, etc. must be marked. Some products around the piece of clothing asymmetric, or piece of  clothing have different horizontal division, it should be marked on the  left and right films, up, down or the difference between positive and  negative.

(4) indicate that the model belongs to the surface, lining, bagging and setting ingredients. Some directly written in the surface, where, and some different colors to distinguish between surface, etc..

(5) Each template shall indicate the number of cut sheets or the number of discharges.

(6) model specifications. Including the number of specifications, such as 160 / 84A, 170 / 88Y,  etc., the English letters S, M, L, said the size of the customer and  provide some special representation.

2 text mark the requirements and model finishing

(1) Marking must be clear and accurate. The general text mark shall be  capped with the text number stamp on the template. If handwriting is  used instead, the handwriting must be corrected.

(2) After the completion of a set of model production, the self-check  and review shall be conducted carefully according to the procedures and  requirements of technical management so as to avoid any deficiency and  error.

(3) Each model should be played at one end of the diameter of 10 ~ 15mm round hole, easy to perforation hanging.

(4)  Model according to the size of each type of specifications, and the  distinction between surface, lining, lining and so concentrated in  series together, easy to manage.